1 |
All
clothes dryers port in the same location: in the center of the
rear panel at the very bottom. With that in mind, cut an 8”
square investigation hole (Diagram A) in the drywall near the
center of the proposed appliance and about 10” off the
floor. Cut the investigation hole carefully as you may discover
that installing The Retro-Fit box will not be practical due
to unknown obstacles or situations. Trick: Hold blade or bit
at a diagonal angle (aiming to center) when cutting to make
it easier to reinstall the drywall cut-out if installation of
Retro-Fit box is not practical. |
 |
Locate
and cut investigation hole |
2 |
Once you
confirm the installation is possible, mark and cut the final
rough opening. No template is included, so you may want
to trace the outer edges of the Retro-Fit box and then by-hand,
transfer an imaginary line about 7/8" in from that on the
two sides and about 3/8" on the top. If you can hold
it off the floor about 3/8" it will assist with the installation
later. But not too much, as we hope to caulk the gap at
the bottom or have the future flooring material cover it.
Preferred installation is port up, although
it will work lying on its side. Turning box upside down (port
down) will not provide adequate storage and recoil space for
flex connector pipe and is discouraged (unless it is a stackable
washer/dryer or on a pedastal). |
 |
Trace and
hand pencil cut-line |
3 |
Cut out
your hand drawn cut-line on the drywall and cut the original
trace line over the baseboard. This will allow the Retro-Fit
box to be installed against the drywall. Note the notch
in the pictures to the right. Remember to hold it a bit
above the finish floor, just enough for caulk or grout.
the higher we can install the box, the easier it will be to
install. |
 |
Cut drywall
and baseboard to accept the Retro-Fit box |
4 |
Mark and
cut the galvanized Snaplock pipe about 1 3/4" from the
lower edge of the drywall. Using a Dremel or roto-disk
cut-off blade will probably be the easiest. Attempting
to cut it with a hack-saw is out of the question. |
 |
Cut 4"
Snaplock pipe about 1 3/4" from drywall edge |
5 |
With a pliers
or needle-nose, attempt to crimp the end of the galvanized pipe
by grabbing and twisting the metal in even increments all the
way around the end. This will narrow the pipe end a bit
and will assist you when you are installing the Retro-Fit box
in the next step. |
 |
Crimp &
twist end to narrow pipe a bit |
6 |
The
step requiring the most patience
Tuck the upper end of the Retro-Fit box
into the opening attempting to align the pipe through the
opening. Place a shim shake or two under the Retro-Fit
box and prepare to nudge the bottom with your foot, while
you pry, align, push, pull and work the Snaplock pipe through
the opening. Using putty knifes, screw drivers and pliers
may be helpful. Be creative. |
 |
Tuck, align
and maneuver pipe through port |
7 |
Once you
get the pipe through the top port, work on getting the Retro-Fit
box all the way against the drywall. Once there, secure
the bottom of the Retro-Fit box to the bottom plate with two
screws. Fastening the bottom to the bottom plate is actually
all the affixing you will need as the Snaplock pipe holds the
top of the box firmly against the drywall. Un-crimp
the Snaplock pipe and make sure it has no burrs or obstructions.
Caulk the baseboard cuts and any gaps. Put your tools
away and grab a beer. |
 |
Attach with
screws and caulk where needed, click image to enlarge |
Notes:
- When installing in an exterior frame
wall, make sure to add insulation or duct board to back
side of box to minimize condensation and temperature transfer.
- The Snaplock pipe can be vented straight
up to a roof jack, to a side-wall vent hood or downwards
to a crawlspace or floor joist system. Width of box
and width of Snaplock pipe will facilitate 16” o.c.
stud spacing. Do not turn the box upside down unless
it is being used for a stackable washer/dryer combo or a
dryer on a pedastal.
- An alternate to this installation is
using a new construction box - click
here to see pictures
|
